Buffets are both a pleasure and a pain, a joy and a sadness. I love the challenge of making portions small, it goes with my fondness for miniature things. But it's harder to produce ten little tarts than one big one. A lot more work goes into buffet than normal desserts. It's a joy to present people with dozens of options instead of a set menu.   But you know they're not really going to admire it, they're just going to pile ten of them on their plates and shovel them in.

On the one hand, they represent America's bounty, the choices we have and the variety of life that living here affords.

On the other hand, there is no better example of American excess.

Regardless, I enjoyed the challenge of creating dozens of itty bitty pastries.